The AzureFilm PETG settings to start with are 230°C nozzle, 80°C bed, 20–40% part-cooling fan, and 60–80 mm/s print speed on a 0.4 mm nozzle. AzureFilm’s own window is 220–240°C nozzle and 80–90°C bed. Retract 2–3 mm on direct drive or 4–6 mm on Bowden, then tune with a temperature tower.
Those figures come from AzureFilm’s PETG Hyper Speed product page, its PETG printing tips article and the PETG technical data sheet. AzureFilm says Hyper Speed is the PETG Original formulation renamed, so a PETG Original profile carries over unchanged. The calibration steps below narrow the vendor ranges to values your hotend and extruder actually hold.
AzureFilm PETG settings at a glance
| Setting | AzureFilm figure | Starting value (0.4 mm nozzle) |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 220–240°C | 230°C, tune in 5°C steps |
| Bed temperature | 80°C (product page), 80–90°C (TDS) | 80°C |
| Part-cooling fan | 20–40% for overhangs and detail | Off for layers 1–3, then 30% |
| Print speed | 60 mm/s typical, up to 200 mm/s on capable printers | 60 mm/s, capped by volumetric flow |
| Top-surface speed | 20–40 mm/s | 30 mm/s |
| Top layers | 5–8 | 5 at 0.20 mm layer height |
| Retraction, direct drive | 2–3 mm | Tower from 0–2 mm |
| Retraction, Bowden | 4–6 mm | Tower from 1–6 mm |
| Drying | ”dry before use” when necessary | 55°C for 6 h (Prusa’s PETG figure) |
| Build surface | Glass, PEI, Kapton or blue tape with 3DLac | Textured PEI, or glue stick on smooth PEI |
The right-hand column is a starting point inside the vendor window, not an AzureFilm number.
Why do AzureFilm’s own pages disagree on bed temperature?
Each page gives a different window: the product page says 80°C, the technical data sheet says 80–90°C, and AzureFilm’s temperature settings article lists 80–100°C. Start at 80°C. It sits inside all three, and AzureFilm rates finished PETG as temperature-resistant only up to 80°C, so a hotter bed mainly risks soft bottom layers and elephant’s foot.
The nozzle figures drift too. The PETG category page gives 220–240°C, then quotes 220–260°C in its troubleshooting text, and says both that you “don’t even need a heated bed” and that the bed should sit at 80–100°C. Treat the product page and TDS as the authoritative pair.
Where in 220–240°C should you print AzureFilm PETG?
Print at 230°C to start, then let a temperature tower move you. Go toward 240°C if you print fast or need layer strength; go toward 220–225°C if stringing is the main defect. AzureFilm’s tips article narrows top layers to 220–235°C, and its temperature guide recommends tower steps of about 5°C.
Run a 240°C to 220°C tower in 5°C steps. The OrcaSlicer temperature calibration page judges each block on stringing, layer adhesion, overhang warping and bridging. If several blocks look good, use the middle, or the higher end if you plan to print faster. Prusa’s PETG guide notes that higher temperature improves layer merging and strength, which is the trade you make against stringing. The flow and temperature calibration guide covers reading the tower.
How fast can you print AzureFilm PETG Hyper Speed?
AzureFilm says 60 mm/s on a typical printer and up to 200 mm/s on newer, more powerful machines; the TDS lists 50–200 mm/s. The product page attaches no number to the Hyper Speed name. Your real ceiling is volumetric flow, which is set by your hotend and nozzle temperature as much as by the filament.
Volumetric flow is layer height × line width × speed. At 0.20 mm layers and 0.42 mm line width, 60 mm/s is about 5 mm³/s and 200 mm/s is 16.8 mm³/s. The OrcaSlicer max volumetric speed test tells you whether your hotend melts PETG that fast. Its defaults run 5 to 20 mm³/s in 0.5 steps: measure the height where the surface breaks down or the gloss changes, then compute start + (height × step). The wiki calls that result best-case, so enter a value 10–20% lower as the filament’s max volumetric speed.
AzureFilm’s category page suggests 60–80 mm/s and warns that PETG can ooze below 50 mm/s. Oozing comes mostly from temperature and travel, not slow walls, so 60 mm/s walls on a bed-slinger without input shaping are fine. Keep top surfaces at 20–40 mm/s.
What retraction does AzureFilm PETG need?
AzureFilm recommends 2–3 mm on direct drive and 4–6 mm on Bowden, and suggests starting around 5 mm with a reduced retraction speed when stringing appears. Treat those as upper bounds. The OrcaSlicer retraction test defaults to 0–2 mm for direct drive, and the shortest clean value is the one to keep.
For Bowden, the wiki suggests a 1–6 mm tower in 0.2 mm steps. On direct drive, long retractions pull softened PETG toward the heat break on every travel, a common route to mid-print jams. If the top of the tower still strings, the wiki says to dry the filament and check that the nozzle seats without leaks rather than adding length.
Then fix travel: enable wipe and keep travel inside the part (combing “Within Infill” in Cura, “Avoid crossing walls” in OrcaSlicer). The stringing diagnosis guide covers the full order.
Cooling, top surfaces and build plate
AzureFilm says PETG “does not always require a cooling fan” and suggests roughly 20–40% for overhangs and fine details. Prusa’s guide runs the fan off for the first few layers, then at half power, or off entirely for maximum toughness. Use about 20% for functional brackets and 40% for cosmetic parts, and raise the bridge fan override locally rather than for the whole print.
For tops, AzureFilm recommends 5–8 top layers printed slowly, with optional ironing. Five at 0.20 mm covers most flat lids; see the ironing guide for PETG values.
AzureFilm lists glass, PEI, Kapton or blue tape with 3DLac spray for the bed. Prusa warns against printing PETG on smooth PEI, where adhesion can be strong enough to damage the sheet. Use textured or satin PEI, or glue stick on smooth PEI as a release layer, and let the bed cool before removing parts.
Drying and moisture
AzureFilm says to store PETG in a dry box and dry it when necessary, and lists popping, bubbling and rough surfaces as signs of wet filament, but it publishes no drying temperature. Prusa’s drying table gives 55°C for 6 hours for PETG and warns that going hotter softens the filament until it sticks together.
Before blaming the spool, check your temperature tower. If stringing looks identical on every block, temperature is not the cause: dry the spool and reprint. Log the colour and any batch code from the label next to your final values.
Calibration order and how to verify
Dry the spool first if it has been open a while, then run the tests in the order OrcaSlicer’s wiki lists them:
- Temperature tower, 240°C to 220°C.
- Max volumetric speed, capped 10–20% below the measured value.
- Pressure advance, using the line, pattern or tower method from the OrcaSlicer PA page; the pressure advance settings guide shows where each slicer stores it.
- Flow ratio, using the YOLO method from −0.05 to +0.05 in 0.01 steps, as walked through in the OrcaSlicer flow rate calibration guide.
- Retraction tower.
To verify, print a 20 mm calibration cube and a 3DBenchy. The cube’s top should show no gaps or raised ridges, and XY should measure within about 0.1 mm of 20 mm. On the Benchy, the chimney-to-cabin gap should carry only fine wisps that brush off, and the bow overhang should not droop. Cura users can map these values with the Cura PETG settings guide.
FAQ
what nozzle temperature for azurefilm petg
Use 230°C as the starting nozzle temperature for AzureFilm PETG. AzureFilm’s product page and data sheet both give 220–240°C, so 230°C sits in the middle. Move toward 240°C for faster printing or stronger layers, and toward 220–225°C if stringing dominates. Confirm the final value with a temperature tower in 5°C steps.
does azurefilm petg need a heated bed
Yes, run a heated bed at 80°C for AzureFilm PETG. One AzureFilm page says a heated bed is optional, but the product page specifies 80°C and the technical data sheet gives 80–90°C. A cold bed invites corner lifting on anything larger than a small calibration piece, so treat 80°C as the baseline.
is azurefilm petg hyper speed the same as petg original
Yes. AzureFilm states that PETG Hyper Speed is the PETG Original formulation renamed to highlight high-speed printing, and the product page still lists the same 220–240°C nozzle and 80°C bed. A tuned PETG Original profile carries over directly. Speed is still limited by your hotend’s volumetric flow, not by the label.
why is my azurefilm petg stringing
AzureFilm PETG usually strings because the nozzle is too hot, retraction is too short, or the spool is wet. Lower the temperature 5°C at a time toward 225°C, run a retraction tower, and route travel inside the part. If stringing does not change across a temperature tower, dry the spool at 55°C for 6 hours.
